Next: Bibliography
Up: Effects of High-Order Nonlinear
Previous: Wave height distribution
It is found that the high-order nonlinear interactions play very important roles in the long time evolutions of gravity waves both deep and shallow-water solving the hydrodynamic equations for gravity waves having narrow to broad banded spectra.
It is concluded as follows:
- The high-order nonlinear interactions can transfer energy among the Fourier modes and excite apparently chaotic mode evolutions even if wave have broad band spectrum in deep-water.
- The high-order nonlinear interactions can generate a single extreme high wave having outstanding crest height such as a freak wave.
- The high-order nonlinear interactions affect
, kurtosis and
remarkably.
- The high-order nonlinear interactions increase the occurrence probability of large wave height in deep-water and decrease it in shallow-water in comparison with the Rayleigh theory.
Consequently, the high-order nonlinear effects should be taken into account independently of the spectral bandwidth to predict the maximum wave and the freak wave generation.
2005-11-21